| This was our long-awaited early autumn getaway
to Northern Arizona’s famed Red Rock country. We arrived at the
Sky Harbor International Airport in Phoenix after a brief 55 minute flight
from Los Angeles. We rented a sharp black convertible Jeep Wrangler to
get in the "off road" mood as we commenced our two-hour open
freeway drive to Sedona on Friday afternoon. Still hot temperatures in
Phoenix, we had been alerted that the drop in temperature in Sedona could
go as low as 40 degrees at night in October so we packed an extra sweater
and our hiking boots.
Making good time we decided to add a 45 minute stop off in Camp Verde
to visit Montezuma’s Castle, a cliff dwelling of the Sinagua Indians
some 10,000 years ago. They mysteriously vacated the area after only a
few centuries. Some of the inhabitants never left the cliff dwelling during
their lifetime. Some Hopi Indian elders suggest they assimilated into
the Hopi nation. Great photo opportunities here.
After this short detour, we arrived at 5:30pm at L’Auberge de Sedona’s
"hidden" entrance in Uptown Sedona’s Arts District. The
tiny L’Auberge Lane drops down unexpectedly into a creekside valley
which leads you out of the Red Rock desert landscape into a lush green
and blooming Vermont-style cottage and country lodge environment.
We were just in time to freshen up and join our fellow guests for a casual
wine reception in the Lodge. A local vintner was chatting up the Northern
Arizona wines in front of the large juniper- infused wood-burning fireplace.
Our concierge and host, Graham, greeted us with an Australian accent softened
by his many years as a head-waiter in the L’Auberge dining room
and his tenure as a tour guide for Pink Jeep Tours of Sedona. Graham presented
us with our written weekend itinerary, planned over the phone and via
email prior to our departure from Los Angeles.
We then strolled across the 11 acre resort to an open air creekside dinner
among the gurgling creek waters and the friendly mallards. Francois, our
server, greeted us with a welcoming "Bonjour" and quickly reverted
back to his mildly-accented English (he must have seen the trepidation
in our eyes). We made our way to our romantic creekside table for two
on the rustic flagstone terrace from which we could lean over and splash
our hands in the crisp creek waters. Each dish was specifically chosen
to complement the setting and the season and was impeccably prepared and
presented.
During our dessert course, our dinner host inquired if he could arrange
to have the "wood butler" start the fireplace and light the
candles in our cottage. We returned to our cozy and upscale creekside
"cottage" to a roaring fire of unbelievably fragrant juniper
wood. This aroma stayed with us the entire weekend and will always beckon
us back to L’Auberge for seasonal visits for years to come.
However, this was a Friday in autumn and this meant we needed to walk
off our culinary adventure and visit with the resort’s astronomer
who claims his self-made telescope is more powerful than the one at the
Lowell Observatory in nearby Flagtaff. Dennis, our stargazing guide, gave
us a visual tour of the universe through the lenses of his 12-foot tall
telescope which occupied two parking spaces. I had once heard the reference
to seeing Rembrandt’s masterpiece Night Watch for the first time
as a "life changing experience." We can now add seeing the rings
of Saturn up close to that elite list of life-altering visual experiences.
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